I wander America on a Harley Davidson motorcycle, sleep on couches and in fifty-dollar motel rooms, eat at Waffle House and Main Street cafes, and have conversations with people whose politics I might not agree with. These are our stories.

Big Peach

Big Peach

This morning in Montgomery, Alabama, I had breakfast at Waffle House. The employees wore name tags: Bluelexis, The Goat, Tessa, Big Peach and Jason.

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Naked

Naked

The Terrace Motel in Natchez, Mississippi costs forty-five dollars a night. Cash. No credit cards. I stayed two nights. Wayne lives at the Terrace Motel. He’s a concrete finisher. Standing behind him waiting to check in, I thought he was drunk, weaving and bracing...

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Home of the Brave

Home of the Brave

Randy’s not tall, 5’6” or so. His left shoulder was badly hurt in an incident and is hunched and lower than his right shoulder causing him to lead with his left when he walks, like a boxer, the good shoulder back and cocked like he’s about to throw a haymaker. One...

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The East St. Louis Monitor

The East St. Louis Monitor

Cairo, Illinois is an abandoned town. Closed buildings, one or two stories tall and built mostly of brick, abut the sidewalks on both sides of Washington Avenue, the main street through town. Besides an occasional aged car ducking in or out of a side street or a...

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Judgement

Judgement

For many years, I knew that there were culinary gems to be found in small town America. And for many years after that, I knew that there were no culinary gems to be found in small town America. I’m in Bluefield, West Virginia. Dinner at Jah’ Kater Kitchen is the gem...

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WTF Motel

WTF Motel

Two nights ago, my motel in Huntington, West Virginia overlooked a fast, busy, one-way, two lane thoroughfare. The speed limit was thirty-five, people were in a hurry, there was a lot of traffic, it was dusk. I was sitting on the balcony watching flatbed semis hauling...

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Born in 1964

Born in 1964

Yesterday’s gentle evening, James and George and I sat on metal chairs beside the creek murmuring alongside the Mineral Springs Motel watching the night come over the mountains and I listened to their stories. James and George are HIV positive. James was diagnosed in...

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The Mineral Springs Motel

The Mineral Springs Motel

I spent the night at The Mineral Springs Motel in Webster Springs, West Virginia. That’s a lot of springs for a little coal mining town, I’ll ask Randy about that. Randy owns The Mineral Springs Motel. He’s sixty-nine, former mayor of Webster Springs, former member of...

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